Country offices to submit initial ratings from factories to
Head Merchandisers and Merchandise Manager for proto prices before
seasonal show
Check/stripe fabric costings to be
carried out by factories on the following basis:
Front/back panels matching only
remainder of panels cut in pairs
Mens
shirting: pocket panels cut to match with CF panels
All other pockets cut as pairs
If using a contrast fabric or a striped fabric, design are to clearly
mark this information on the development sheet, in order for correct
rating to be issued
After showing Head Merchandiser to advise dropped pages to
fabric dept and pattern room (end of UK show week).
Fabric buyer to advise deadline date for correct ratings from
the pattern room, and copies are to be given to the Head Merchandisers.
After final showing, Head Merchandisers to advise the Fabric
Buyer, Pattern room, Merchandise Manager on final collection ( styles
added back in, dropped etc)
Pattern room to supply Fabric Buyer correct rating and all
relevant lay plans
Head Merchandiser/Merchandise Manager to discuss with pattern
room all price issues, so rating can be carefully reviewed.
Assistant Merchandiser to bring to the fit meetings information
regarding expensive fabrics/low margins, to avoid pattern room working on
changes that cannot be accommodated.
After the garment is sealed the following is to be actioned:
GRADING:
Romania: Pattern room to
forward graded pattern to Mantra
Poland/Serbia/Ukraine: Pattern room to email patterns and send
sealed PDM comments to FC Poland to grade
Factories to submit production ratings before cutting to the
country offices, who then advise differences to the Merchandise Manager
and Fabric Buyer
Any rating changes more than 4cm are to be highlighted to the Merchandise
Manager
Merchandise Manager and Fabric Buyer to review the ratings not achieved
by the factories. If rating is not achieved a lay plan is to be requested
by the Merchandise manager and pattern room to action.
Any changes in ratings higher or lower must be handed to Head
Merchandiser in the form of a costing by the Merchandise Manager.
Bulk production Merchandise Manager to ensure correct fabric
balances at the end of the season are received against meterage
delivered and agreed rating. Any variances to be discussed with the Head Merchandisers/Production
Manager/Chris Chen.